STROLLING THROUGH MADRID

THE LITERARY QUARTER

 

The Literary Quarter, or Barrio de las Letras, is one of the most charming areas in the heart of Spain’s capital. It still retains some of the magic it must have had in the 16th and 17th centuries, when great writers such as Cervantes, Lope de Vega, Quevedo and Calderón de la Barca walked its streets.

 

There are many fascinating corners to discover in Madrid’s Literary Quarter. Would you like to join us on this walk?

 

From orchards to the heart of Madrid’s literary life

 

During the Late Middle Ages, this area was known as the Huertas area, as it was filled with fertile land used to grow vegetables and other crops — hence the name of Calle de las Huertas. Gradually, however, the area became urbanised and developed into the neighbourhood we know today.

 

Because it was once located on the outskirts of the city, living here was relatively affordable. As a result, many bohemian artists and writers settled in the area, gradually transforming it into the literary heart of Madrid.

 

The streets of the Literary Quarter, bordered by Atocha, Paseo del Prado, San Jerónimo and Carretas, experienced a remarkable cultural and literary flourishing during Spain’s Golden Age, a period spanning the 16th-century Renaissance and the 17th-century Baroque era.

 

Many of the greatest writers in the Spanish language lived in or regularly walked through these streets.

 

In fact, the neighbourhood is sometimes known as the “Quarter of the Muses” or the “Parnassus Quarter”, a fitting name for a place so closely associated with poetry, theatre and literature.

 

It was also here that some of Spain’s most important corrales de comedias, the early open-air theatres of the Spanish Golden Age, were established, along with some of the first traditional theatres. Two examples are the Teatro Español, which we will mention later, and the Teatro de la Comedia, which still stands today.

 

Calle del Gato and Valle-Inclán’s distorted mirrors

 

One of the most curious streets in the area is Calle Álvarez Gato, named after a poet who served as steward to Queen Isabella I of Castile.

 

The street is affectionately known as Callejón del Gato, or “Cat Alley”, because it is associated with one of the most famous scenes in Ramón María del Valle-Inclán’s Luces de Bohemia.

 

In this passage, the protagonists look at themselves in distorted mirrors, an image that became a metaphor for the literary style known as esperpento, in which reality is deliberately exaggerated and distorted.

 

If you walk past the bar Las Bravas, you will notice several mirrors placed outside as a tribute to the work. The original mirrors, however, can be found inside.

 

Plaza de Santa Ana: the heart of the neighbourhood

 

Squares are the centres of life in towns and cities, and the same is true of neighbourhoods. Plaza de Santa Ana is one of the most iconic places to visit in Madrid’s Literary Quarter.

 

It is common to see both visitors and locals strolling through the square or enjoying a coffee in the sunshine.

 

One of the most famous places to do so is the renowned Café Central, with its elegant Art Deco style. Another historic establishment is the Cervecería Alemana, which, with more than a century of history, has welcomed famous visitors such as Ernest Hemingway, Ava Gardner and Lola Flores.

 

The name Santa Ana comes from a Carmelite convent of the same name, founded in the 16th century. The convent remained here until the end of the 19th century, when it was demolished as part of the urban redevelopment of the area.

 

Some of the most important corrales de comedias in Spain were also located nearby, including the Corral del Príncipe and the Corral de la Pacheca.

 

Today, visitors can enjoy the Teatro Español, as well as the statues of two of Spain’s most important playwrights: Pedro Calderón de la Barca and Federico García Lorca.

 

Intellectual gatherings in Plaza del Ángel

 

In the nearby Plaza del Ángel once stood the Palace of the Counts of Tepa, with the Fonda de San Sebastián located on its ground floor.

 

Between 1750 and 1850, it became a popular meeting place for intellectuals and artists. Writers and thinkers such as Campoamor, Bécquer, Goya and Jovellanos gathered here to discuss the future of the country.

 

Political matters and women, however, were supposedly forbidden topics of conversation.

 

It would have been fascinating to attend one of these gatherings, known as the “Tertulias del Buen Gusto”, or “Gatherings of Good Taste”. Writers such as José Cadalso and Leandro Fernández de Moratín are said to have worked on some of their writings at the inn.

 

Not far from here is another important meeting point, Plaza de Jacinto Benavente, named after the author of La Malquerida.

 

Among its most attractive buildings are the former Cine Ideal, with its beautiful stained-glass windows, and the Teatro Calderón.

 

Churches and literary history

 

On Calle de Atocha stands the Church of San Sebastián, where Miguel de Cervantes’ death certificate is preserved. The church is also closely linked to the lives of several important figures of Spain’s literary and artistic history.

 

It is one of the main religious buildings to visit in Madrid’s Literary Quarter and was originally constructed in the mid-16th century.

 

The church once had several chapels financed by different guilds. During the Spanish Civil War, however, much of the building was destroyed by bombing. It was later restored, allowing visitors today to appreciate its historical importance.

 

Attached to one of its façades is a particularly charming flower shop, adding a touch of colour and beauty to the historic building.

 

Another important religious site is the Royal Basilica of Our Lady of Atocha, where visitors can also explore the nearby Pantheon of Illustrious Men, the final resting place of prominent Spanish political and historical figures such as Cánovas del Castillo, Sagasta and Canalejas.

 

Calle de las Huertas: the main artery of the Literary Quarter

 

Calle de las Huertas is the main artery of Madrid’s Literary Quarter. It is a long street that crosses the neighbourhood diagonally and is filled with attractive shops, cafés, bars and restaurants.

 

As you walk along the street, you will notice fragments of literary works engraved in golden letters on the pavement. These quotations decorate the streets throughout the neighbourhood and serve as a constant reminder of the writers who once lived and worked here.

 

You can also discover panels featuring passages from the biographies of renowned authors such as Emilia Pardo Bazán and Francisco de Quevedo.

 

At the intersection with Calle León stands the Royal Academy of History, home to an important bibliographical and documentary heritage. Its origins can be traced back to a gathering of friends interested in history and literature, which later received royal approval from King Philip V and eventually became the Royal Academy of History.

 

A neighbourhood to enjoy with all your senses

 

After all this walking, you may begin to feel hungry. Fortunately, the Literary Quarter is also an excellent place to enjoy traditional Spanish cuisine.

 

The neighbourhood is home to numerous historic taverns and restaurants where visitors can experience the flavours of Madrid.

 

Places such as Casa Alberto, Cervecería Alemana, Los Gatos, Taberna Mariano, Taberna La Venencia, Taberna La Daniela and Taberna La Dolores are excellent options for anyone who appreciates traditional cuisine and the atmosphere of Madrid’s historic taverns.

 

A walk through the Madrid of great writers

 

We highly recommend taking a stroll through the wonderful Barrio de las Letras, where you can still breathe in the literary atmosphere of another era.

 

This is Madrid’s bohemian neighbourhood par excellence, a place where wandering through its streets means following in the footsteps of some of the greatest writers in Spanish literature.

 

Allow yourself to get lost among its squares, historic buildings, theatres and cafés. Look down at the literary quotations engraved on the pavement, stop for a coffee in one of its historic establishments and imagine a time when Cervantes, Lope de Vega or Quevedo may have walked along these very same streets.

 

Exploring the Literary Quarter is much more than a walk through Madrid.

 

It is a journey through the history of Spanish literature, theatre and culture — an experience that no visitor to the Spanish capital should miss.